Take a look at our frequently asked questions to find the answers to your questions.
It is essential that all garden buildings are assembled on a firm and level base constructed from an appropriate and durable material.
Without the correct base, buildings may be very difficult to assemble. In many cases, an incorrect base may lead to future deterioration of the product if assembly cannot be completed correctly as a result. Problems may include doors dropping out of square and becoming difficult to open and close, and/or water leakage.
Assembling a garden building on an incorrect base is also likely to invalidate any guarantee that your product may carry.
For full details and examples of how to create an appropriate base visit our Build a Base Guide.
This will vary depending on the style and material of the building you have purchased but the following items may be required for your building;
Wooden Sheds and Summerhouses - Spirit level, hammer, adjustable spanner, handsaw, stanley knife, stepladder, sealant and gun.
Log Cabins - Electric Screwdriver, wooden or rubber mallet, spirit level, hammer, handsaw, stanley knife, stepladder, sealant and gun.
Metal Sheds - Electric Screwdriver, power drill, adjustable spanner, sealant and gun.
This will vary depending on the style and size of the building you have purchased but the following could be used as a general guide for your building;
Smaller Wooden Sheds and Summerhouses (1-2 persons) approx 1-2 hours
Larger Wooden Sheds and Summerhouses (2 persons) approx 2-3 hours
Smaller Log Cabins (2 persons) approx 2-4 hours
Larger Log Cabins (2 persons) approx 3-5 hours
Window panes are pinned into position using the panel pins provided. You can download our easy to follow guide below which illustrates this process.
After pinning the panes into position, you will need to seal the windows to make your building weatherproof using your preference of a suitable sealant such as silicone, mastic, putty, etc. and beading to reinforce the panes if you wish.
Wooden Sheds are not supplied with window beading as standard so please don't confuse the corner strips as such. However, we do offer a glazing kit as an optional extra with a selection of buildings, which consists of sufficient beading and silicone sealant for the building in question.
The pre-drilled holes are generally positioned about 2-3 boards from the top and bottom on the gable panels as detailed below;
We do find that occasionally customers comment on the pre-drilled holes being missing. When the panels are dipped in treatment, these holes sometimes get covered and when the treatment dries they simply can't be seen. However, these are just a guide for you so if you can't find the holes, simply ensure that you screw the coach bolts through the gable ends into the framing on the side panels.
Use a spirit level to check your overall base and ensure that it is as level as possible to assist with ease of installation.
If the base isn't level, you may find that you struggle assembling the building as the panels might not line up. Alternatively you may find that the doors and windows stick in their frames if they are not sitting square. The doors may also look as though they have dropped or are not hung correctly.
This is fairly easy to resolve and can usually be rectified by simply lifting two opposite corners of the building to straighten the building out.
The key is stapled to the framing on the back of the door near the lock. If you have ordered a spare key, this will be given to you by the driver.
Most of our wooden buildings will be treated with our standard water-based red cedar factory treatment. However, this treatment is temporary and will not last. You will need to re-treat your building as soon as possible, both internally and externally, using a high quality spirit/solvent treatment.
Log Cabins are completely untreated and will therefore need to be treated as soon as possible both internally and externally, to prevent any water-damage. We would advise the use of a good quality spirit/solvent based treatment.
Wooden buildings should be re-treated annually as part of their standard maintenance.
This is really a matter of personal preference.
As a guide, you could space your nails so there is one nail every couple of boards on each panel. This would be more than enough so if you choose to space them further than this, it's not a problem. When securing the sides to the floorpanel, you should nail through the framing into the floor where the bearers are. The position of the bearers will be easily identifiable by the run of nails through the floorboards.
It is your preference for how you wish to seal and support the window panes.
You are provided with panel pins to secure the panes into position and then it is your preference of suitable sealant to make them weatherproof. Products such as silicone, mastic, and putty would be appropriate.
You may wish to use beading to reinforce the window panes but this is not supplied with our wooden sheds as standard. Please do not confuse the corner strips as window beading.
We do offer a glazing kit as an optional extra with certain buildings, which would contain sufficient beading and sealant for the number of windows in that building.
You can find instructions for your building on the product page of our website underneath the Downloads section. A list of instructions for products across the Tiger range is available here:
Other Buildings & Accessories
One question we are frequently asked is - 'how difficult is it to build one of your sheds?' Simply put - it isn't hard to do. In this guide, you will learn how easy it is to build a Tiger Shed.
Is it difficult to build a Shed?
Believe it or not, you don’t need to be a professional to build a Garden Shed! With some assistance, Shed assembly is a DIY task that is easier than you may think.
Below is a simple guide on how to build a traditional Apex Garden Shed.
Your Tiger Shed will come with full assembly instructions. These instructions are a simple step-by-step guide to Shed assembly. Remember – your Shed might have more than four side walls to it so assembly would be a little different in this case!
What do I need to build a Shed?
Before even considering assembly of a Garden Shed, there are three things you need to do:
You need to have a firm and level base prepared to build your Shed on. This must be made using a suitably durable material such as concrete or paving slabs. If you’re unsure how to do this or would like some guidance to ensure your base is correct, please view our ‘Build a Base Guide’.
It is vital that you also check you have all of your components in order to complete the assembly. With the delivery of your Shed, you will receive a component list which will allow you to check off the parts received against the parts you should have. Generally, each Garden Shed will comprise of panels for the four walls, floor, and roof, felt, and fixings.
Top Tip: Taking the time to check through your components before assembly will aid a swift and efficient build process.
The final preparation you need to make for assembly of your Garden Shed is ensuring that you have all the tools you are going to need. For assembly of Tiger Sheds, you will need the following:
Top Tip: For safety, we would advise that Shed assembly is always carried out by a minimum of two people – one person to hold the components in place and a second to nail or bolt into position.
If you have checked and prepared everything required to build, you’re ready to assemble the Shed.
Step One – Position the Floor Panel
Lay the floor panel(s) down in the desired position and check that the floor is level. If the floor is not level, you may need to pack under the bearers with some blocks to level out the base. At this stage, you may wish to check that the floor is square by measuring diagonally across the floor from corner to corner. Each diagonal measurement should be the same.
Top Tip: If your floor is not square, you can measure the panels to check that they match up to the corresponding side of the floor. If they do, it may be that the panel has simply been knocked out of alignment during transit. You can resolve this by tapping the floor at the corners to straighten it out again.
Step Two – Position and Secure Gables and Sides
First of all, position one gable end panel on to one end of the floor panel.
Next, offer-up a side wall panel and secure this to the gable by using the 38mm nails. You should nail through the side into the gables internally. Using the coach screws provided, secure the gable panel to the side panel, through the pre-drilled holes in the gable from the outside.
Now, you need to place the second gable panel in position and secure this to the side panel you have just put in place. Again, use the 38mm nails and coach screws provided.
Finally, position your final side wall panel and secure with the nails and coach screws as before.
When all of your wall panels are in place and you are satisfied that they are sitting square, secure them to the floor using the 65mm nails provided. You will need to nail through the side and gable panel base rails, through the floor boards and into the floor joists/bearers below.
Top Tip: There are lines of nails across the floor panel where the floor boards have been secured to the bearers. These can be used as a guide to ensure that you secure the base rails at the correct points to penetrate the bearers below.
Step Three – Position and Secure the Roof Panels
Place the roof panels in position and secure these internally to each other with the 65mm nails provided. You may need to pull the two panels together at the apex before you can nail them to each other.
Next nail the roof to the gables and side frame with the 38mm and 65mm nails provided.
Top Tip: If at any point the roof panels do not align correctly or the door does not open/close properly, this may suggest that the building is not sitting square on your base and has become twisted. To resolve, one or more corners of the building may need lifting slightly to straighten it out. Once square, you can secure the roof panels. If you are having trouble with this and need extra advice, please refer to our Online Help Guide.
Step Four – Felt the Roof
Before starting, please be aware that certain sizes of building may need the felt cutting into two or more pieces. Please consult the felt guide you will receive with your building for more information.
After checking the number of lengths of felt required, cut the felt received if necessary and roll out along the lower part of one side of the roof. Allow sufficient overhang to fold down onto the roof framing (but not the underside of the roof). Use the clout nails provided to tack along the top edge of felt. Repeat this process on the other side of the roof.
Depending on the size of building, you may need to repeat this process along the upper sections of the roof, overlapping the felt at the apex. Not all buildings require a ridge piece so it is best to check the felt guide if you are unsure.
Top Tip: Don’t set your felt too low when positioning the first strip as you will find that you won’t have enough to cover the roof. You will only need an overlap of around 3 inches and will then have enough to cover with the felt supplied.
Step Five – Fit Bargeboards and Finials
Secure the Bargeboards to the Roof Panels, trapping the overhanging end of the felt in-between to provide a weather seal. When you are happy with the position of the Bargeboards, secure the diamond-shaped Finials to the Bargeboards at the Apex.
Top Tip: The Bargeboards are generally slightly longer than the roof panels. However, you can cut them down to be flush with the edges of the roof if you would prefer. To do so, hold the boards up against the gable ends and cut before securing them into place.
Step Six – Fit and Seal the Glazing
Slot the Glass or Styrene into position and secure using the panel pins provided. You will need to gently tap the pins into the window-frame to avoid scratching the windows.
If you have the Styrene windows for your building, you will need to remove the protective film from the panes.
You will need to seal the windows after the panes have been fitted to ensure they are weatherproof. To do so, use a suitable sealant product such as silicone, mastic, putty, etc. and your choice of beading to reinforce the panes if preferred.
Top Tip: To prevent scratches on the glazing while hammering in the pins, you should leave the protective plastic on the panes until fitted. You may also wish to use a piece of thin cardboard or similar to stop the hammer coming into direct contact with the panes.
Step Seven – Fit the Corner Strips
To finish assembly, use the 38mm nails provided to secure the corner strips to the exterior corners of the Shed where the panels meet. These may need cutting to fit.
Now all that’s left is to treat your Garden Shed with a suitable waterproofing preservative inside and out.
Don’t forget to share your completed building with us! #yourtigershed
The Installation team will contact you after the delivery to arrange for assembly to take place. The teams have a guideline of 10 working days following the delivery in which to arrange for the Installation to take place.
Not at all! You can order the Installation service at any time. If you would like to order the Installation after delivery of the order, please call a member of our sales team on the number above and we will sort the order for you. Please keep in mind that we don't store any payment information so if you wish to place an order, you will need to have your payment information to hand.
Installation covers assembly of the building only and not any additional extras that may have been ordered.
Unfortunately, this is not something the install team would be able to arrange for you. You will need to have your base prepared prior to the arrival of the Install team. For further details on the type of base required, please see our Build A Base Guide.
The delivery and Install teams are separate so it wouldn't be the delivery driver installing the building. You will be contacted by both the delivery team and Install team to arrange their repective parts of the order. Installation is generally on a different day to the delivery to allow you the required time to check your components before assembly takes place.
The Pro Installation covers installation of the building only and not any accessories
The Pro Installation team will only install the building and not apply any paint or treatment you may have.
If you have ordered the installation option when purchasing your garden building, the Installation team will contact you after the delivery to arrange for assembly to take place. The teams have a guideline of 10 working days following the delivery in which to arrange for the Installation to take place.
As part of the Installation service, the windows are pinned into place only. You will need to seal the windows as soon as possible after assembly using a suitable sealant such as silicone, mastic, putty, etc. and you may wish to reinforce the panes using your choice of beading. Windows should only be sealed when completely dry.
The Installation team do contact you directly as they are based off-site. As we don't schedule the Installations, unfortunately, we wouldn't be able to provide you with the Installation date should you give us a call but would be happy to send a message through to your Install team to chase them up for you.
This would really depend on the size of Cabin to be installed and the level of DIY skill of the Installer. You will tend to find that smaller Log Cabins (2 people to install) will take approximately 2-4 hours and larger Log Cabins (2 people to install) will take approx 3-5 hours. If you have ordered Shingles, this will add on to the build-time.
Log Cabin Installation is relatively straightforward. You will receive full instructions and provided that these are adhered to, you will find the process quite easy to follow.
Log Cabins are built-up a log level at a time, the windows and doors are slotted into place and the roof secured. This is obviously a very simplistic way of describing the Cabin install and if you would like more information, please view the Instructions for Cabins in the Downloads section.
You need to squeeze the two panels together at the apex and secure each panel together through the framing.
It may be that something isn't quite sitting square in the building. Check that the building isn't twisted by lifting two opposite corners of the building to straighten it out. This should bring the roof panels into alignment for you to nail into position.
This depends on the style of roof you have. If you have a Pent roof on your building, you should not get a roof truss. Buildings that have an apex roof and a length of 10ft or more will be supplied with an apex roof truss. The length of the roof truss will be equal to the width of the garden building. Apex buildings over 10ft in length will be supplied with one roof truss. However, If the building is 20ft long it will come with three roof trusses.
The pre-drilled holes are generally positioned about 2-3 boards from the top and bottom on the gable panels. We do find that occasionally customers comment on the pre-drilled holes being missing. When the panels are dipped in treatment, these holes sometimes get covered and when the treatment dries they simply can't be seen. However, these are just a guide for you so if you can't find the holes, simply ensure that you screw the coach bolts through the gable ends into the framing on the side panels.